Canal boats in Bruges run from about 10am to 6pm, March through November. Most people wander onto one sometime after lunch, when the queues are long and the boats are packed shoulder to shoulder.

The first boat of the day is different. The water is still. The light is soft. Your boatman might actually chat with you instead of rushing through the script. You'll glide under the Bonifacius Bridge, past the garden walls of old almshouses, through tunnels of overhanging trees — and for a few minutes it genuinely feels like the 15th century.

The ride lasts about 30 minutes and costs €15. There are several departure points along the Dijver and Rozenhoedkaai. It doesn't matter which one you pick; the routes overlap. Just show up at 10am sharp and you'll practically have the boat to yourself.

One tip: sit at the back. You get a slightly better view and more room. The front fills up first because people assume it's the best spot.