Bruges with children requires some planning. The museums are adult-oriented, the restaurants assume grown-up diners, and the cobblestones will defeat any pushchair. But there's more kid-friendly stuff than the guidebooks suggest.

The Boudewijn Seapark in Sint-Michiels (5km from the centre) has dolphins, seals, water slides, and rides. It's commercial and cheesy and children love it. Bus 7 from the station.

The canal boat tour is a hit with kids — 30 minutes is the perfect attention span, and the low bridges create satisfying moments of ducking. The swans at Minnewater are also a reliable crowd-pleaser.

The Choco-Story museum on Wijnzakstraat finishes with a chocolate-making demonstration and tasting. Children are usually more interested in the tasting than the history. The Frietmuseum in the same area ends with fries. Combine both for a morning.

For running around, the Koningin Astridpark has a playground and duck pond. The rampart parks have wide open spaces. And the old windmills near the Kruispoort are atmospheric — kids can play on the grassy banks while you admire the view.

Eating out: Belgian kids eat the same food as adults, and restaurants expect it. Frites are universal. Waffles are universal. Pizza exists. You won't struggle.

The Christmas market (late November to early January) is magical for children — ice skating, lights, markets, and enough sugar to fuel a small rocket.