Belgian food doesn't get the international respect it deserves. The French look down on it. The Dutch don't talk about food at all. But Flemish cuisine — stoofvlees, waterzooi, mosselen — is some of the best comfort food in Europe.

Stoofvlees (Flemish beef stew) is the national dish. Beef braised for hours in Belgian beer — usually a dark abbey ale — with onions, mustard, and a slice of gingerbread to thicken the sauce. Every restaurant makes it differently. The best versions are rich, complex, and deeply savoury. Served with frites, obviously.

Waterzooi is a creamy stew, originally from Ghent. The classic is made with fish (various river fish), but the chicken version is more common now. It's lighter than stoofvlees — a golden broth thickened with cream and egg yolks, with vegetables and herbs.

Mosselen-friet (mussels and fries) peaks in September-October when the mussels are fattest. A pot of mussels steamed in white wine with celery and onion, served with a mountain of fries. It's a ritual — you use an empty shell as tweezers to pull the mussels from their shells.

Kroketten — croquettes filled with shrimp (garnaal) or cheese — are the classic Belgian starter. Crispy outside, molten inside. Two per person is usually enough.

For dessert: Brugse Snoepjes are Bruges' own candy — hard-boiled sweets in various flavours. Or just have another waffle.