The Belgians will tell you — firmly and often — that fries were invented here, not in France. The story goes that villagers along the Meuse river used to fry small fish. In winter, when the river froze, they cut potatoes into fish shapes and fried those instead. The French-speaking soldiers who tried them called them "French" fries. The Belgians have never forgiven this.

In Bruges, the best frites come from frituren (fry shops). The key is the double-fry method: once at a lower temperature to cook through, then again at high heat for the crust. The result is crispy outside, fluffy inside, and miles better than anything from a fast food chain.

The most famous frituur in Bruges is probably the one on the Markt. It's always packed, the queue is long, and the fries are good but not the best. Locals tend to prefer the smaller places slightly off the beaten path.

Order them in a paper cone with mayonnaise — not ketchup. If you ask for ketchup you'll get it, but you might also get a look. Other sauces worth trying: stoofvleessaus (stew sauce), andalouse (spicy mayo with peppers), or samurai (even spicier).

The Frietmuseum on Vlamingstraat is the world's only museum dedicated to fries. It's in a 14th-century building. The exhibits are more interesting than you'd expect, and there's a tasting room in the medieval cellar.