Belgium has always been a beer country. But for decades, the landscape was dominated by the big breweries — InBev, Duvel Moortgat — and the traditional abbey styles. In the last ten years, a craft beer revolution has changed things.

De Halve Maan is Bruges' oldest brewery, and they've embraced modern innovation while respecting tradition. The Brugse Zot is a classic blond, but they also experiment with limited editions and barrel-aged specials. The brewery tour is one of the best in Belgium — partly for the beer, partly for the rooftop view, and partly for the story of their underground beer pipeline.

Bourgogne des Flandres on the Dijver is a newer operation — a brewery and tasting room right on the canal. They specialise in blending old and new: their signature beer is a mix of a top-fermented ale and a lambic-style sour. It's complex and very drinkable.

For tasting, 't Brugs Beertje on Kemelstraat remains the gold standard. Over 300 beers, an owner who knows every one of them, and the kind of comfortable, worn-in atmosphere that can't be manufactured.

The Bottle Shop on Wollestraat is a good place to buy bottles to take home. They have a curated selection and can advise based on your taste.

New trend to watch: low-alcohol and non-alcoholic Belgian beers are improving rapidly. Even traditional breweries are producing them.